≡× MENU

• Protein diets
• vitamins
• diets
• For multicooker
• For weight loss

How to cut leather products. Learn to sew leather products by hand and on sewing machines

Yes, but subject to certain rules. Working with genuine leather is difficult, but interesting and informative.

: types, description, care

Preparation and cutting of leather parts

Genuine leather is sold in specialized stores in pieces of various sizes and shapes. Therefore, going to the store, take with you a pattern of the product that you are going to sew. So you definitely will not be mistaken with the amount of material needed.

Before you start cutting leather products, sew a sample of fabric with all changes made to the paper pattern. Or take a proven model that does not require any adjustments.

Cut the skin, laying it out in one layer. Paired parts, for example, right and left sleeves, cut out in a mirror image.

Genuine leather is more stretched in the transverse direction than in the longitudinal direction, therefore, in order to save money, one shelf cannot be cut along and the other across.

You can cut the skin with tailor's scissors, an ordinary blade,

One part of which is dressed in a cork.

But it is best to cut out details from genuine leather with a special knife on a plastic or wooden substrate.

When cutting suede, be sure to consider the direction of the pile, it should always be directed from top to bottom.

The details of the paper pattern are attached to the skin with adhesive tape (painting tape is suitable), the contours are marked with a ballpoint pen with a thin rod or

Marker pen.

The seam allowances along the cuts should be of the same width and be 1.5 cm, the bottom of the product and the sleeves should be at least 5 cm.

Details of a product made of genuine leather cannot be swept in the usual way, as traces of a needle will remain on the skin. For the same reason, stitched parts cannot be ripped apart in order, for example, to adjust the pattern. Make any adjustments before sewing.

Before sewing, fasten the parts with ordinary paper clips, stationery or special clips for leather. The latter can be purchased in specialized stores.

If you want to use tailor's pins, then fasten the parts with them, perpendicular to the seam line, not reaching it a couple of millimeters. After sewing, carefully remove the pins.

Wet heat treatment of genuine leather

To “smooth out” the seam allowances in a product made of genuine leather, spread them in different directions and gently tap with a wooden, rubber or ordinary small hammer. Then the allowances can be glued to the product with a special glue for the skin.

If the skin is thin and soft, the allowances can be smoothed out with an iron through a cotton cloth or an iron.

Important! Before ironing natural leather, first carry out this operation on an unnecessary flap. Be sure to turn off the steam function. Any Genuine Leather under the influence of wet-heat treatment shrinks.

read on site

How to sew genuine leather on a household sewing machine

needles

Use only special thin triangular needles for working with leather. They are available for both sewing machines and handmade. In this case, choose the size of the needle depending on the thickness of the material.

Threads

For sewing leather on a sewing machine, strong thin or specialized threads for leather are suitable. It is very important to choose the right threads, otherwise they will break during the sewing process.

Silk, viscose or synthetic will do. Please refer to the instructions for your machine for the correct thread thickness.

Paws

Attach a Teflon or roller foot to your sewing machine. The latter serves as an additional upper conveyor, and helps to avoid displacement of parts relative to each other. Currently, a hybrid of a Teflon foot with a roller is found on sale.

If you don't have either, place tissue or silk paper under your skin while sewing, which can then be easily removed. In this case, your sewing machine will advance genuine leather well.

And instead of the upper conveyor, a strip of thin and fine sandpaper will help out, which should be placed under the foot with the working surface down. Be sure to pre-test on an unnecessary patch.

Stitch length, bartack

For sewing leather, set the stitch length on the sewing machine to near the maximum, 4-5 mm. Too small stitches strongly perforate genuine leather, as a result, thin material may tear along the seam.

Stitching on leather goods

Stitching on leather products is done without a basting, with long stitches, at a slow speed, parallel to the seam, focusing on the edge of the sewing machine foot. In this case, a thicker needle and special threads are used for stitching. For example, the product was embroidered with a needle No. 80, and for stitching, take No. 90.

First, before stitching, tap the thick sections with a hammer to make them flat.

: Master Class

Gasket materials

Places that can stretch during wear are reinforced with low-temperature doubler or interlining. Be sure to reinforce the armholes, neck and shoulder seams.

It is better to take a special fleece for leather Le 420, which is glued with an iron. It is better to duplicate very thin skin with interlining over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe material.

To strengthen, for example, the handles of a bag, you can use non-woven formband or strips cut to the width of the details of the handles from low-temperature dublerin for leather.

The lining for leather products is sewn in the same way as for products made of ordinary fabric. It performs not only an aesthetic function, but also helps to maintain the shape of the product.

Buttons in a leather product should always be sewn in pairs - one on the front side and a small flat one on the inside.

Pockets and zippers are fixed with a glue stick, seam allowances and hem are glued with textile glue.

: video tutorial on the site

Source and photo: website; Julia Dekanova

Things made of leather are stylish, beautiful and extremely comfortable, especially in autumn! They have one more advantage: high-quality leather is a wearable material. Even if the style is outdated or the appearance is damaged, the skin can be reanimated. In extreme cases, it will come in handy for creating other products.

Approximate consumption of leather for outerwear:

• Women's coat (fur coat) - 370-380 sq.dm.
• Women's jacket - 250-260 sq.dm.
• Men's coat - 400 sq.dm.
• Men's jacket - 270-280 sq.dm.
• Women's jacket- 250-270 sq.dm. (for Russian sizes 46-50)
  1 sq.dm = 10 sq.cm

  Before cutting
  

Skin preparation. Pieces of leather, whether old or new, should be moistened from the wrong side with a solution consisting of 20 g of table salt, 20 g of glycerin per 1 liter of water, water temperature 30-40 C.


Moisturized skin is easily restored. All irregularities, bulges, we can easily pull up. We fix the tightened skin and let it dry for several hours. You can fix it with ordinary pins on any surface, the main thing is that the area allows. Carefully! The pin leaves a mark.

Pattern: The seams on the skin cannot be torn open - there will be traces of stitches, so use only a “tested” pattern. It is better to prepare all the details of the pattern in a complete set: 2 parts of the shelf, 2 sleeves, etc. Each detail is cut out separately, and errors will be excluded.

Before opening the skin, be sure to iron it, because it shrinks.

cutting


We work around defects. You can cut either from the wrong side or from the front side, but in any case, all thin places and holes should be noted on the skin.

How to decompose? The closer to the center, the stronger the skin. With this in mind, cut out the most worn parts of the future product. Stella sent me a diagram of the details of the pattern on the skin. Use matching quality leather for the front and sleeves. The thickness and nuances of coloring should not be left without attention, especially for shelves.

Follow direction. The skin is more stretched in the transverse direction than in the longitudinal direction. It is better to cut all the details along the share (along the ridge), deviations are allowed up to 10%. Don't skimp on quality.

Seam lines, markings and allowances. The contours of parts and allowances must be marked with a soft pencil or ballpoint pen, or with finely sharpened chalk. Allowances of the same width make it easier to sew cut details. Make small allowances for the main sections: 1 -1.5 cm; 2.5 -3 cm can be used to hem the bottom; armhole, sleeves - 0.5 cm.

Cut the skin with sharp scissors or, better, with a special circular knife. With such a knife, cutting must be done on a special substrate: you can use a sheet of thick cardboard or a piece of linoleum.

Ironing

The skin is ironed from the wrong side with a moderately heated iron, without steam, through the iron. First, of course, be sure to try on an unnecessary patch.

The ironing process will facilitate “sticking” and “breaking”.
The seam allowances are opened, glued to the main product with ordinary rubber glue, and then tapped with a hammer on a marble slab (special small hammers are commercially available, but a regular one will do). You need to knock with gentle pressure so as not to pierce the skin. Thanks to this operation, the seam becomes thinner and neater.

To prevent the tip of the tuck from tearing when tapped, glue or attach a piece of material to the top of the tuck.

During the “gluing” operation, it is better to apply the glue with a brush or a wooden spatula in a thin layer, wait a couple of seconds (so that it does not stick to your fingers) and then stick it. Allow the glue to dry for an hour before stitching, otherwise the needle will get stuck and the stitching will be poor. Use rubber glue- when it dries, the seams will remain elastic.

Be very careful! Rubber glue comes off well from the front side of the skin, but from the inside, and even more so from velor - you can’t peel it off! Keep it in a tightly closed jar (thickens when exposed to air). If the glue has thickened, dissolve it with a little acetone.
You can buy rubber glue at any shoe store.

pad

It is better to use a special adhesive interlining for the skin, which is ironed with a moderately heated iron without steam. The skin remains soft and supple over the entire area. It is possible to glue not the entire surface, but only the seams, but if there are thin places on the skin that are difficult to get around, they should be strengthened with adhesive interlining. The belt is glued completely.


Leather sewing

The details of the leather cut are not swept away, but are chipped along the allowances or connected with ordinary paper clips. For sweeping, they also use double-sided tape for the skin and an adhesive stick for the skin.

The skin is grinded down machine stitching with large stitches about 3mm long, the fine stitch perforates the leather too much and the seams are torn. Thin leather can be sewn like fabric with a regular #80 needle, turning the details. However, allowances to lie smoothly, glue or attach.

Stitches on thick skin performed with a special needle for the skin with a trihedral point. The number of the needle depends on the thickness of the skin. They scribble it "in the open". One piece has a seam allowance and the other does not. On the wrong side of the part, which is cut out without an allowance, with a pencil, you need to outline the width of the allowance of another part. Glue the parts from the wrong side one on top of the other with rubber glue and then grind.

Edges don't fray clean, but set one on top of the other (we are talking about sewing from thick leather). To do this, the details are cut out first with seam allowances.

The edge of the upper part (collar, side) is wrapped and glued to the bottom. The lower part is glued onto the allowance with the upper wrong side, then attached from the side of the upper (wrapped) part. The protruding part of the allowance is cut close to the stitches of the line.

Do not glue the bottom hem to the full height, but leave the top 1-1.5 cm open.

If the sewing machine does not feed the leather well or sews uneven stitches try the possible solutions:

• use a Teflon or roller foot;
• use split. Tap with a hammer at the seam on a small metal bar, and the thickness will noticeably decrease;
• iron a narrow strip of gasket over the seam line;
• you can lay a line on top of tissue paper;
• or dampen the seam with soapy water.

  If you are stitching:

• Under one half of the foot, you can put a straight strip of cardboard so that the finishing stitch does not grab the cardboard.
• For coated leather only. The place of stitching can be lubricated with oil (vegetable or machine). This cannot be done on aniline skin - a cloudy trace will remain.

History of one bag. Such a detailed MK)

All kinds of handbags are my passion, says Brina.
The starting point was a second-hand jacket: an outdated style and a lot of excellent leather.
The book "Encyclopedia. Leather" Technique, techniques, products was a great help. Elena Cherkizova. "AST-press book" 2004. The book contains a lot of useful information and various subtleties that I have not seen in other sources ..

At the first stage, it is worth deciding on the dimensions and geometry "in practice". E. Cherkizova advises taking thin paper for this, which can be folded several times.

The second very important stage is the construction of the pattern. All lines should be as smooth as possible, it is quite difficult to make any "points" in the seams on the skin.

Cardboard templates make it easier to work, especially if the product has complex curves. I want to draw your attention to the flexible pattern. This wonderful little thing helped me a lot in my work - you can "shape" the curve and "edit" it, achieving the perfect result.

The leather can be ironed on the wrong side with a fairly hot iron. If you really need to iron on the front, you can put a piece of leather on top as an iron: smooth side to smooth side. The texture and shape will be preserved.

The skin can be starched with a spray from a balloon from the wrong side, ironed through a cloth or paper.

There is a special adhesive tape for leather, similar to double-sided tape. Using this tape, it is very easy to connect any parts, for example, a valve.

Almost all seams need to be tapped. The skin becomes thinner, takes the desired shape and is much easier to sew.

As a sealant, I used material for packaging household appliances. It resembles smooth foam, something between foam rubber and isolon. Then all the parts are connected with adhesive tape and stitched.

Regilin was laid along the lightning line. Without it, in the unbuttoned form, a smooth and beautiful bend cannot be obtained. I glued the regilin, and for additional fixation I sewed it manually with a seam "over the edge". I think this method is quite acceptable for home conditions.

From the book of E. Cherkizova, I learned about a wonderful method that facilitates the implementation of a manual seam. The skin is pierced with a fairly large medical needle (from a syringe). A needle with a thread tip is inserted into the hole of a medical needle, and the reverse stroke of this needle pulls the needle with thread very easily.

When sewing leather, it is very important to tie all the threads of the beginning and end of the seams, and not to make reinforcement stitches. The tails of the tied threads should be left 1 - 2 cm, because. they slide into the skin and the seams come loose very easily.

Many who are fond of tailoring very often have to work with leather. Handmade bags, leather jewelry, various crafts and even leather paintings look very original and stylish. But most often, work with leather is associated with the repair of leather clothing, the replacement of zippers, the restoration of torn areas, etc.

There are many books on teaching the technique of sewing leather by hand or on a sewing machine, which describe in detail the purpose of certain tools for working with leather. I offer only a few basic recommendations for working with leather, which will be useful to anyone who decides to repair a bag, jacket, etc.



Leather tools



Working with leather has many of its "secrets" and little things, which must be known and taken into account.
For example, when cutting out paired parts, you need to remember that the skin stretches more in the transverse direction than in the longitudinal direction, so paired parts must be cut in any, but only in the same direction.

It is impossible to chip the skin with pins. There are traces of punctures on the skin, and if you change the lock in a leather bag or jacket, you can easily see this.

Soft leather can be sewn on a sewing machine with a regular #80 or #90 needle. But for sewing rough leather or thickened areas, a special needle is required for working with leather. Even for hand sewing leather, the leather needle looks special, instead of a point, it has a triangular tip.

The length of the leather stitch should not be too short, as repeated punctures can cause the leather to tear at the junctions.

You need to cut the skin with a special shoe knife on a plastic board or plexiglass. You can also use a wooden surface, but then the knife edge will cut into the tree.

A shoe knife, rubber glue, adhesive seam enhancers, a thimble, strong synthetic threads and a small hammer with an awl are a must-have set for any home furrier who decides to replace a zipper in a bag or repair a torn area leather jacket.

How to sew leather on a sewing machine


Not every sewing machine can sew leather, treat your sewing machine with care and do not try to sew thick and rough leather products, especially bags, on it. In extreme cases, you can use a manual sewing machine of the Podolskaya type, but not modern seamstresses, at a cost of 5 thousand rubles. For working with leather, special industrial-style machines are provided, or, in extreme cases, the instructions should indicate that leather clothes can be sewn on this machine.


If you sew leather on a household sewing machine, then be sure to buy special needles and a foot with a wheel (as in the photo). Then the skin under the foot will not "slip" and the machine will easily advance the product without forming a fit of the upper layer of the skin.

If you don’t have a foot or it doesn’t fit (Podolsk sewing machine), then in order for the skin to move under the foot more easily, you can sew it through thin paper, which is then easy to remove.

Threads for a sewing machine must be taken strong and elastic, nylon threads are not intended for sewing on a typewriter. They are only used for handmade leather work.

Genuine leather sewing technology

When sewing suede products, you need to take into account the direction of the pile, otherwise the details will have a different shade.

The skin is ironed from the wrong side with a non-hot iron without steam through a dry cloth.

To prevent the upper part from stretching relative to the other, purchase a special foot with a Teflon-coated sole or such as in the photo. Teflon feet cost much less than special feet for leather.

The ends of the seam threads must be securely fixed with several knots, since machine stitches on leather products are not secured by the reverse motion of the machine and they tend to unravel easily.

Working with leather is impossible without glue. The adhesive is applied with a brush on a cleaned and degreased surface. Universal adhesives such as PVA and Moment, as well as rubber glue, are very effective. Repeat the procedure with the application of glue several times in order to thoroughly impregnate the skin. At the same time, take care in advance that the glue is not too liquid, otherwise the skin will get wet.
Set the parts treated with glue aside until the adhesive dries "to the point".
After some time, connect the parts together. Put the glued parts under the press. You can even lightly tap with a hammer on these areas.

Using a cotton swab or rag, immediately remove excess adhesive solution so that it does not spoil the front surface of the skin.


How to install accessories on leather products


Any handmade leather work should be decorated with fittings. Large metal rivets and buttons, buttons, blocks, locks adorn leather goods very much.

Buttons are sewn to the skin only if there are buttons on the wrong side.

The punched holes for the button are reinforced either with pieces of the same material or with a dense adhesive cloth.

Installing buttons requires a special tool. You can get by with homemade fixtures, but this installation method gives a lot of marriage, then get more buttons than you need.

Before you install a zipper in a leather product, you should fix it. Instead of basting with threads, adhesive tapes or glue are used.

The edges of the cut areas of the skin are glued with special leather enhancers (tapes). On the one hand, a weak adhesive is applied to such a tape.

Holes remain from a puncture with a needle, so the seam is done once. As a last resort, lay a seam along the old holes.


How to refresh the look of your skin


After finishing work with the skin, the appearance of the product can be refreshed. You can remove the marking lines with soap and water and ammonia, then wiping with a cloth moistened with petroleum jelly or glycerin.

Heavily contaminated areas on the skin can be washed with warm unboiled milk, wiped with whipped protein or half an onion.

White skin is cleaned with a mixture of milk and beaten egg white.

Patent leather should be wiped with a cloth soaked in glycerin, or cleaned with a swab soaked in milk.

Suede can be cleaned with sawdust soaked in gasoline (remaining sawdust is brushed off), or with an ink eraser, as well as fine-grained abrasive paper.

Stains from household grease are removed with gasoline or talc and a solution of oxalic acid.

Very easy to use spray paint for leather: it is sprayed by holding the can at a distance of about 20 cm from the skin and quickly moving it along the surface to be painted. After a ten-minute break, the next coat of paint is applied. This operation continues until the surface of the skin acquires an even and durable color.


Tailoring of leather goods




A few tips for tailoring and cutting clothes made of leather or suede.

1. Pick patterns that do not require landing. Complex shapes in this case are easier to perform with constructive seams than with darts. In the past, tailors tried to use as few stitching lines as possible on leather goods. Currently, leather products have more seams, often even leather clothes or accessories are sewn from small patches of leather.

2. Kimono and raglan sleeves are easier to make when sewing leather clothes than set-in sleeves. If you are making a set-in sleeve, measure its fit increase. It should be no more than 1.5 cm. It is better to make a shirt sleeve, as it has a freer armhole.

3. You must be sure that your patterns are correct. Therefore, it is good to use a pattern with which you have already worked. Or, the prepared pattern should be checked on a model made of non-woven material (non-woven fabric without glue) or inexpensive fabric, and only after that mark it on the skin and cut it.

4. Before cutting the skin, mark holes and thin places on the wrong side of the skin so that they can be bypassed when cutting. Carefully lay out the patterns, make sure that the paired parts (right and left shelves, right and left sleeves, etc.) are cut out in a mirror image. Mark the contours, lines and marks on the wrong side of the skin with a ballpoint pen or soft pencil, or a special pen for marking. Mark the seam and hem allowances. Some marks can be made with notches or adhesive tape. The seam allowances should be the same width, which makes it easier to sew the cut details.

5. The skin is stretched in different directions in different ways, therefore, when cutting, it is necessary to observe the same direction of paired and mating parts. When cutting suede, you must follow the direction of the pile. The pile should be directed from top to bottom.

6. The needle leaves puncture marks on the skin, so leather parts are not swept away, and stitching seams are not torn. Use adhesive tape or paper clips to pre-join the parts. There is also a special pencil for fixing Guterman's seams. The pencil does not leave a mark on the needle of the sewing machine.

7. Use a stitch, topstitch, or topstitch. Seam allowances cannot be ironed or ironed, as on a fabric. Instead, they can be glued with rubber glue or another that remains elastic even after polymerization (drying). There are special adhesives from the Rudolfix company, as well as NT 2 glue from the Guterman company. If you don't have glue, secure the seam allowances in place with machine stitching.

8. As a lining, it is recommended to use a special interlining for leather LE 420, glued with an iron.

9. The fastener is performed on a "zipper", on loops (turned, overcast and hinged) and on buttons. Buttons must be riveted. They are put in workshops for installing fittings.

10. Smooth out the seams with the handles of the scissors. First, from the inside, lay the allowances with short taps, smooth them out. Then do the same on the front side with the seam groove.

11. Working with leather involves ironing the leather with a non-hot iron without steam through a dry cloth from the inside of the product. Before ironing a part of the product, try on an unnecessary piece of leather.

Many people are sure that working with genuine leather is quite difficult. However, it is not. Leather is a noble natural material. It cuts well, looks beautiful in various products and is worn for a long time, remaining looking great.

You need to know a couple of simple secrets on how to sew leather in order not to spoil the material and give the desired look to your product. So:

When choosing leather in a store, be sure to have the entire set of prepared patterns with you. Since the skin may have color defects, holes and irregularities in different areas. And if you have patterns with you, then you will select the pieces of leather you need without defects.

Before sewing the skin, it is necessary to sweep it. Do not sweep the details of the product with needles and threads. Because they leave traces. In order to avoid them, it is necessary to first fasten the skin with pins, but they need to be injected perpendicular to the seam. You can not go beyond the seam! It is best to sew a machine stitch over the pins, and only then remove the pins.

In no case do not unstitch the already stitched material, as defects will remain on it. It is better to sew according to previously tested patterns.

After the lines are completed, you can proceed to the seam allowances. They need to be laid out in different directions and tapped with a wooden mallet so that they smooth out.

Then they are glued with a special glue for the skin to the product.

If the skin is soft and thin, then the allowances can be smoothed out with a slightly heated iron through a damp cloth. Before ironing the skin, it is necessary to iron any unnecessary piece of fabric. So you check if you burn it.

In order for the foot of the sewing machine not to stretch the skin, it is best to grease the product in front of the foot with sunflower oil. After sewing, the oil can be easily removed with a soft cloth.

Leather goods must not be washed! If you want to clean it, then you need to contact the dry cleaner.

There is an important tip when tailoring leather goods. It is best to first make this product from a simple fabric. Then you will make all the changes that you need and do not make mistakes. And then you get the perfect version of what you wanted.

So, now you know all the secrets of how to sew leather! You can start bringing your ideas to life!

In order to work with leather, not only a sewing machine for sewing leather is required, but also special needles, threads, glue, adhesive materials. You need to use many tools designed specifically for working with genuine leather.

The technology of sewing leather on a sewing machine is different from sewing fabrics. And first of all, the fact that sewing leather requires a special foot and special sewing needles. The main technological feature of the connection of leather parts is that the allowances of the stitched seams are not ironed out, but glued.

Many who are fond of tailoring often have to work with leather. Handmade bags, finishing elements of clothing details, jewelry, various crafts and even leather paintings look very original and stylish.
There are many books on learning the technique of sewing leather products, lessons and master classes. We offer only a few basic simple recommendations on the technology of sewing leather on a sewing machine with your own hands.

In this video you will see how easy it is to sew leather on a class 22 or Podolsk sewing machine if you install a Teflon foot on it. If you are into sewing, please subscribe to my channel.

The thickness of the skin depends on the type of raw material used for the production of leather and the technology of leather dressing. For each product it is necessary to choose a certain type of leather. For example, leather for sewing gloves (like leather) is suitable for jewelry. It is soft, elastic and able to convey the most subtle nuance of small details of products.
It is better to sew bags from tougher leather, more rough dressing. If soft leather is used for sewing a bag, then it is imperative to use duplicate pads made of dense material to shape the bag.
If you are going to sew a fur vest with leather inserts and finishing elements, then use dense but soft leather. Rigid, rough skin will "pull up", and too thin can tear at the junctions.

2. How to sew leather on a sewing machine

Leather work quite a difficult task, because you need to know a lot of technological features. Know how to use a variety of tools and equipment. For example, when cutting out paired parts, it must be taken into account that the skin stretches more in the transverse direction than in the longitudinal direction, so it is desirable to cut the product parts in one direction.
It is impossible to chip the skin with pins, it is also not recommended to sweep with threads. Needle punctures will leave marks that cannot be removed.
Soft, thin leather can be sewn on a sewing machine with a regular needle (for fabrics) No. 80 or No. 90.

For sewing thicker and rougher leather, special sewing needles with a tip shape in the form of a two-sided or four-sided blade are used. This shape of the needle blade makes it easier to pierce rough leather, leaves a less noticeable mark and prevents gaps in the stitch or thread breakage.
The stitch length on the sewing machine should be set almost to the maximum, because in places where the needle is often punctured, the skin can be torn.

3. Not every sewing machine can sew leather

To replace a zipper in a leather jacket, it is imperative to have an industrial sewing machine capable of sewing leather. Otherwise, you can break not only the needle, but the machine itself.
Before sewing leather on a sewing machine, be sure to read its instructions. If it doesn't say that you can sew leather on it, then don't even try. But you should not despair, remember your grandmother. She probably has an old Podolsk or Singer sewing machine with foot or hand drive. This machine will definitely not break, and will confidently sew leather. At least she won't feel sorry for her. Of course, the replacement of lightning will not be done very well, one might say in a handicraft way. But if you try hard, then the new zipper in the jacket will even look decent.

4. You need to cut the skin with a special shoe knife

In this video you will see the technology of sewing zippers into leather clothes. If you are fond of tailoring leather products, subscribe to our channel and you will learn a lot of useful tips.

After finishing work with the skin, the appearance of the product can be refreshed. Marking lines left during work are removed with soap and water or ammonia. To restore the leather surface to its former shine, then wipe this area with a cloth moistened with petroleum jelly or glycerin.
Heavily contaminated areas on the skin can be washed with warm unboiled milk, wiped with whipped protein or half an onion.
White skin is cleaned with a mixture of milk and beaten egg white.
Patent leather should be wiped with a cloth soaked in glycerin, or cleaned with a swab soaked in milk.
Suede can be cleaned with sawdust soaked in gasoline (remaining sawdust is brushed off), or with an ink eraser, as well as fine-grained abrasive paper.
Stains from household grease are removed with gasoline or talc and a solution of oxalic acid.

9. Dyeing clothes made of genuine leather

The technology for painting leather with an aerosol can is quite simple. Aerosolized leather paint is sprayed by holding the can about 20 cm away from the area of ​​the leather product. To ensure that the paint layer lays down evenly, without streaks, do not hold the can for too long in one area. Smoothly and constantly move it along the surface to be painted.
After a ten-minute break, the next coat of paint is applied. This operation continues until the surface of the skin acquires a uniform color throughout the area. However, it should be noted that this method of painting the skin is intended only for partial "refreshment" of its surface. It is not recommended to use aerosolized leather paint for "cardinal" repainting of leather clothing.

Sometimes genuine leather needs to be sewn together on a furrier machine. In this video you will see how the furrier machine 10B works.

When installing accessories on leather clothes, there are always difficulties. Buttons and blocks bend, buttons do not hold, etc. To help you correctly install buttons, blocks on clothes with your own hands, we have prepared an article with the recommendations of the master.

How to make a belt with your own hands. How to make a hole in a belt, fasten a buckle and what tools are needed to work with leather.

Working with leather always comes with many challenges, even if you have the right sewing machine and tools. In order to facilitate some of the operations when working with leather, we offer you a few professional tricks.

Not every craftsman can replace a zipper in a leather jacket, even in an atelier. In addition to a special machine for sewing leather, you need to know the technology of working with leather, have special tools and devices. But, if the jacket costs less than the cost of repairing it, then you can try to replace the zipper with your own hands. For some tips on how to properly sew leather, you can find in this article.

Tailoring of leather and tailoring of fur is a special kind of sewing work. If a sewing industrial machine of type 22 class is used for working with leather, then sewing machines are not used for working with fur. There is a special furrier machine for this.

Working with natural leather involves the use of special needles, a foot with a roller instead of a sole and, of course, a special sewing machine capable of making high-quality stitches without gaps and thread breaks. To properly sew leather with your own hands, you also need to know what type of thread is used to sew leather.

Many special tools are used to work with leather. This is not only a shoe knife, but also a special hammer for softening seams, a punch for installing accessories, a special awl for sewing leather by hand, etc.

Adhesive fabrics are needed to stiffen certain parts and areas of clothing. However, cool fabrics and materials are used when working with genuine leather. Adhesive-glued leather jacket bands will not stretch when zippered. You can also put adhesive fabric in the cuff, collar.

Leather products are good because they look noble and are durable to wear. These two factors fully justify their high cost. A more accessible and no less interesting thing can be obtained by figuring out how to sew from leather and what is required for this.

"Correct" patterns for leather products

For sewing leather things, you should give preference to patterns that do not require an exact fit. Darts on the skin are difficult to perform, usually they resort to the help of special seams.

Set-in sleeves on leather products are also problematic. For this reason, one-piece sleeves (raglan type) are preferred. If this is not possible and the style requires a set-in, it is most advantageous to perform it in a shirt cut - with a looser armhole.

It is advisable to take proven patterns that you have already used in your work. If the template is new, it is recommended to test its fit on a layout made of any non-woven material.

Since it is not easy to sew from leather, it is advised to learn as many nuances as possible related to the processing and elaboration of the material before starting work.

Due to its specificity, genuine leather is sold in large pieces. Since the material can have a variety of visual defects (roughness, color irregularities, tears), it is important that these defects do not fall on the part of the product that will be in full view all the time. To do this, at the time of choosing the skin for work, you must have a complete set of patterns, which will allow you to correctly calculate the required amount of material, taking into account all its features.

Not every variety is universal and suitable for any product. The thickness of the leather material depends on the quality of the workmanship and the type of raw materials. Finely dressed leather is good for gloves and jewelry - it stretches and is able to emphasize the beauty of small things. For bags, it is more profitable to take dense leather - more durable and wear-resistant. If elastic and thin material is chosen for accessories, it is necessary to use additional pads for strength.

When cutting paired parts, it is important to keep in mind that the skin stretches better in cross section than along the fibers. Thus, the patterns of paired parts must always be laid out in the same direction.

When working with suede, the direction of the pile is taken into account - otherwise the color of the details will vary. The pile always "flows" from top to bottom.

The skin is cut with a special knife (the so-called "shoe" or "shoe") on a plastic coating or plexiglass. wooden surface less suitable, because the blade cuts wood, and this noticeably complicates the work.

In view of the characteristics of the skin as a material, any punctures - be it with a needle or a pin - leave marks on it. At the same time, it is certainly necessary to sweep the details of the product together before sewing. There are several options for how this can be done.

How to sweep away fragments of a leather product

1. If pins are used, then they do it only in the area of ​​​​the allowance for freedom of fit, without affecting that part of the part that will subsequently be visible. Experts advise to stick them perpendicular to the future line. The seam is performed without removing the pins.
2. In order to completely avoid the appearance of punctures, sometimes parts are fastened with ordinary paper clips.
3. Often they take for work a special tailor's adhesive tape or a special pencil for fixing the seams of leather products.
4. It is not forbidden to use PVA glue or Moment (or any rubber glue). To do this, glue with a special brush is applied to the cleaned material. After that, it must be allowed to dry well and connect the parts together. The parts are pressed so tightly against each other that they can "grip" - a press or a hammer often comes to the rescue. This method has its drawbacks: the glue tends to build up in the eye of the sewing machine needle. This may cause skipped stitches and thread breakage.

When sewing, it is important to carefully fasten the threads of the seams. Ideally, it is advised to make several strong knots. First of all, this applies to machine stitches that do not secure the thread, which subsequently leads to its rapid unraveling.

Since leather is a very dense and tight material, sewing it is quite difficult. To facilitate the work process, it is recommended to pre-moisten the cut parts from the wrong side with a special solution of water, salt and glycerin.

Such a product is ironed exclusively from the wrong side, a lining made of dry fabric is required. The iron should not be very hot - this tightens the skin, making it stiff. The steam function is also disabled.

Materials and tools

• Punch, hammer, awl. For making holes in fabric.
• A special knife (the so-called "shoe" or "shoe").
• Plastic surface or plexiglass for cutting.
• Universal glue (PVA, "Moment") or rubber.
• Strong and elastic threads. Ideally linen, pre-lubricated with wax (waxed). This will make it easier for the needle to pass through the material while sewing, and also increase wear resistance.
• Strong needle with a special triangular tip.
• Thimble.
• Buttons for the front side and "sub-buttons" for fastening on the wrong side.

livemaster.com

How to sew from leather

Leather products can be sewn both on a typewriter and manually. The second method is more preferable for many tailors, since not every sewing machine is able to work with this material with high quality.

Hand sewing

Slots are marked on the prepared material for further stitching. For this, a reference line is needed, along which they can be laid at equal intervals. Holes are pre-marked with a sharp needle, then knocked out - using, for example, an awl.

Before starting the work itself, the paired halves of the parts are folded in such a way that all the planned punctures coincide with each other. It is better to sew with a needle with a thread folded in half. The length should be at least a third more than the intended seam.

kakprosto.ru

Seams “needle forward” or “needle back” are laid along the holes made earlier. Some tailors prefer to work with two needles at the same time. To do this, one needle is inserted into the initial hole and pulled through. The second is threaded through the next slot and stretches down. Then the same needle should pass from the back side just above the first and stretch again. After that, the two needles pass further together and are pulled out in the same way.

mjusli.ru

Both at the beginning and at the end of the seam, “fasteners” are made. Four consecutive stitches are sewn, then one more stitch of four is placed over them. Extra threads are tied in a knot, melted with the flame of a candle or lighter. The nodules are immediately pressed against the skin - in this case, they will stick, and the seams will not open.

If it is not possible to use the right needle for the skin, you can work with an awl. In this case, they not only make holes, but also push the thread. It is only worth noting that this is not the most optimal alternative to a needle, since the awl quickly erases the thread and can ruin the skin itself.

If you have a crochet hook in your arsenal, it is preferable to choose it. The hook is pulled through the hole, grabs the loop of the double thread and pulls the thread to the right side. Next, the hook is threaded into the next slot, grabs the loop from the inside and pulls so that it is about 1 cm higher than the front side. After that, the previously formed end of the thread is pulled into the resulting loop to tighten the stitch. So the entire seam is laid using the stitches described above. At the end of the work, four additional ones are made along the already laid ones - for fixing.

How to sew on a machine

Not every sewing machine can sew leather. Before you start working with her, you need to read the manual and make sure that she can perform such a task. Otherwise, there will be a chance to harm not only the needle, but also the sewing machine itself, as well as spoil the details of the future product. Sturdy old sewing equipment is best suited for working leather.

In general, only soft, not too thick leather up to 1.5 mm wide is sewn on a sewing machine. For thin and delicate, they take simple needles No. 80 or No. 90. A special needle with a multi-faceted blade instead of a round tip is necessary for a successful result when working with dense skin. It cuts through the fibers of leather or suede, and not just pushes them apart.

Sets the maximum stitch width. Leather - especially thin - is easily torn, and with frequent stitches there is a chance of tearing the fiber.

It is advisable to stitch the part in one line.

kakprosto.ru

Subsequently, it will not be possible to iron the seams, therefore it is recommended to make a sewing or stitching seam. They can then be glued with a special glue, which retains its elastic properties even after drying. In the absence of glue, allowances for a loose fit can be sewn in the desired direction.

If, under all conditions, the seam on the skin cannot be performed, the following can be done:

• take a thicker needle;
• use less dense and rough skin;
• when not tightening the upper thread, try instead of linen waxed threads to take nylon threads;
• to help move the skin along the conveyor when sewing, experts recommend a special Teflon or roller foot;
• sew over tracing paper - this will increase the degree of sliding of the skin under the machine foot;
• spray the material in front of the foot with sunflower oil to increase slip.