How to stick decoupage napkins. Methods for sticking napkins
Each decoupage woman is faced with the question of how to glue a napkin without wrinkles. There are several ways to do this. I recommend trying each of the methods and choosing the most convenient for you. The classic use of napkins in decoupage is the top layer as a motif.
It can be cut or torn out of the napkin with your hands, depending on what the end result should be. If it is necessary to compare (paint over) the general background or draw something, the napkin can be torn out.
Thus, the fleecy edge at the gap will lie better on the surface. And if you need a “clean” napkin motif, it is better to carefully cut it out. In order to glue the napkin without creases and tears, there are several options.
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1. Gluing the napkin with a “file”
The most convenient option for gluing napkin motifs on all surfaces.
You will need a regular stationery file, water, glue or acrylic varnish and, in fact, a napkin.
A napkin is placed face down on the file. Pour a puddle of water and glue or varnish. The percentage of glue or varnish to water is about 10%.
Generously wet the napkin so that the cellulose is completely wet. The napkin should practically float in the liquid. Gently straighten the wrinkles with your fingers, remove the air. Excess liquid must be drained, and the file with a napkin glued to the surface. While the napkin is wet, you can easily change the angle or position of the napkin. The file is easily separated from the motif. If as a result of gluing, tears or wrinkles are obtained, you need to add water and correct this unfortunate misunderstanding.
2. Gluing the napkin with an “iron”
Very convenient option for even wooden surfaces.
So, you will need a heated iron in the “no steam” mode, decoupage glue, a napkin and baking parchment with a non-stick coating.
We coat the primed and prepared wooden surface with a layer of decoupage glue. It is important not to miss the moment here. The top layer of glue should no longer be sticky, and the middle is still wet. At this stage, lay out the napkin on the surface of the part, cover with parchment and iron it with a hot iron.
Thus, we get a perfectly flat surface.
3. Gluing the napkin with a “fan brush”
This method is convenient for gluing small napkin motifs. You need a fan brush, water and a drop of acrylic varnish or decoupage glue.
So, put the napkin face up. Pour a small puddle of water into the center of the motif and add a drop of varnish or glue. As the napkin gets wet, add water with a fan brush and holding the dry edge with your hands, as if slightly stretching and straightening the wet napkin. When the edge of the napkin is wet, use a fan brush. It is very convenient to straighten the folds and expel the air without fear of creases.
Naturally, you need to work carefully and very carefully. It may not turn out very smoothly the first time, but do not despair - skill comes with experience.
You need to glue the napkin motif on a white surface. Otherwise, the colors of the motif will be distorted.
Adhesive printout
Before starting work, any printout must be prepared - stratified. This is done very simply.
1. Rolling off a layer from a printout with your finger
To avoid spreading of the paint, before separating the layers, it is worth treating the front layer with varnish and drying it.
On a piece of thick plastic film (you can use a clerical file), we put the printout face down. Pour water in such a way that the paper is saturated with water and gently roll the wet paper with your fingers so that the bottom, colored layer remains intact. Remove all small pellets and bumps. The printout can now be glued to the motif. It is very easy to do this on the same piece of plastic wrap. Lubricate with adhesive (decoupage glue, acrylic varnish, decoupage varnish or PVA glue - to choose from) and lay face up on the prepared surface. Straighten the motif, expel the air and carefully remove the film.
2. Using stationery adhesive tape (adhesive tape).
We stick the adhesive tape on the back of the printout and with a sharp but gentle movement remove the layer of paper. You need to repeat this until the front (color) layer of the motive is visible. After that, the motif can be easily glued to the workpiece in the usual way.
Gluing a decoupage card
There are a huge number of decoupage cards. It is much easier to work with them than with a napkin. They do not need to be stratified and due to the thick layer of paper, they can be glued to any surface (cream, pink, pale green, etc., but you need to remember about moderation: a white rose on a black background will be gray).
1. Plain decoupage card.
So, the motif from the decoupage card needs to be cut out, including all the white gaps, for example, between the leaves on the flower card. It is convenient to do this with thin scissors or special knives for cutting paper.
The finished motive must be soaked in warm water for 10-15 seconds. Dry on a napkin. Glue in the usual way (with a finger, you can use a fan brush) on decoupage glue or PVA. Remove air bubbles and excess adhesive with your hands or with a small rubber spatula.
2. Decoupage card on rice paper.
The motive is pulled out of the card by hand. Glue the motif to the prepared surface in the usual way with decoupage glue or PVA glue. Preferably on a light surface.
Film Fridecor
Features of working with freedecor film are similar to those of working with a decoupage card.
The carved motif should be soaked for 5-10 seconds in warm water. Film peels off wet paper easily. Peel off the film and stick to the prepared workpiece. Due to the adhesive layer on the film, no additional adhesives are required. Gently spread the film with your hands and expel the air.
The film is less than a millimeter thick. Therefore, with its help, decoupage is done on volumetric parts made of self-hardening clay or plastic. To do this, each element of the picture is prepared separately - petals, plastic leaves. Then a motif is glued onto them (petals cut out separately), after which they are assembled in a drawing and glued.
Tips from masterisa-mzd
Method 1: the puddle method
This is one of the "classic" ways of gluing a napkin. Its essence is that a dry napkin is laid out on a workpiece, straightened and smoothed with fingers. A puddle of glue (highly diluted with PVA or special decoupage glue) is poured into the center of the napkin and this puddle is accelerated towards the edges with fingers or a brush. This method requires a lot of skill and training, because you need to disperse the puddle very quickly, otherwise the napkin under it will get wet and “float”.
Method 2: wet brush
This method is also considered a classic. On a flat, prepared dry (!) Surface, apply a napkin motif and smooth it with your fingers. We dip the brush in water and drip a small drop of water into the very center of the napkin. Slightly lifting and stretching the edges of the napkin, we moisten it all with a wet brush, moving from the center to the edges, as if with a "sun". We hold the brush almost parallel to the surface and touch the napkin very lightly, as if pressing it to the surface. We try hard not to "buzz" with a brush based on the motif, so as not to tear. After the motif has stuck to the surface, let it dry for a few minutes and cover it with any decoupage agent - glue or varnish right away. We apply the first layer very thinly so that the napkin is saturated with the composition and in the future it no longer forms wrinkles during varnishing.
In the same way, you can stick the motif not on water, but on any decoupage agent - glue, varnish or other compounds. In this case, the brush is dipped not in water, but in glue. The brush technique remains the same.
Method 3: using a file
This method is perfect for gluing large napkin motifs. To do this, we need a regular stationery file or any piece of thick cellophane. We place the file in a container (for small motifs I use a tray, for large motifs - a bath) and lay out a napkin on it. If decoupage is straight, then face down, if reverse, then face up. From above, carefully pour water so that the file, together with the napkin, floats slightly in the water. We straighten the napkin over the file, expelling air bubbles from under it with our fingers. We take out the file from the water by the edge, the napkin should stick to it, as it were. We check in the light that there are no wrinkles or air bubbles. If they are still there, we lower the file into the water again, straighten the folds on the napkin, expel all the air from the center to the edges and carefully pull it out again. We make sure that the napkin sticks completely evenly to the file. We shake off excess water, smear the surface with decoupage glue or varnish and put a motif on it right along with the file. With a roller or cloth, smooth the file from the center to the edges, expelling possible air bubbles and pressing the napkin to the surface. Carefully remove the file by the edge, the napkin remains evenly glued to the surface of the workpiece. It must be thoroughly dried and only after that apply the next layers of varnish. For printing on rice paper, the method is similar.
Printouts can also be pasted using the file method. After processing and rolling the extra layers of paper, lay out the printout on the file (face down for direct decoupage and up for the reverse). The lacquer film is denser than a napkin, it can be spread on the isle and simply under running water, or also put into a container, pour water on top and gently spread it with your fingers. We take out the file, shake off excess water, coat the surface with glue or varnish (you can print out itself). With reverse decoupage, only the printout is smeared. We impose the file on the surface of the workpiece, carefully smooth it with a roller or cloth from the center to the edges and remove the file. Dip your finger in glue / varnish and press the printout to the surface with circular rubbing movements, expelling air and straightening possible wrinkles.
Method 4: on a glue stick
This method at first glance seems simple, but it has a number of nuances. The technique is as follows: we coat the treated dry surface of the workpiece with glue, put a napkin on top and press it to the surface, gently stretching and smoothing the wrinkles. You can roll with your fingers, a small rubber roller, or any rounded tool. It is possible to cover with varnish only after the napkins have completely dried. The first layer must be applied very thinly, it is better if it is a varnish in an aerosol. It often happens that after the first layer of varnish, the napkin begins to wrinkle. This usually happens with water-based varnishes. To avoid this, you can use any non-aqueous varnish as the first layer. In addition, the glue stick may conflict with some types of varnishes, bubble, tear the napkin, change its color. I recommend that before you glue the motif on the workpiece, test your glue and varnish on a small surface.
Method 5: "hot way"
This method has two options - gluing with an iron and using a hair dryer.
Option 1 is suitable for even flat surfaces. We smear the surface with oily PVA glue and let it dry completely. Before work, the napkin can be sprinkled with water so that it stretches, and also dry. We put a napkin on the surface, smooth it, lay a sheet of baking paper on top and carefully iron it with a hot iron (without steam!), Paying special attention to the edges and corners. Carefully remove the paper. If the edges or corners are not glued, repeat the procedure. Dry and only after that we apply the first thin layer of varnish.
Option 2 is ideal for curved surfaces such as bottles. Just as in the first variant, we coat the surface with PVA glue and dry thoroughly. We put a napkin on it, wrap it with baking paper and evenly heat it with a jet of hot air from a hair dryer. This method is not suitable for champagne, it may explode when heated. And in general, you need to be careful with glass and not overheat it much. Next, remove the paper, dry the napkin and varnish.
Author.
Here I want to tell you about the simplest and most reliable way sticking a large fragment on the surface to be decorated. In this way, you can even stick a whole napkin 33x33 cm, and absolutely evenly, without wrinkles and tears, both on a flat and curved surface.
Consider example of sticking a paper napkin on a flat wooden surface. So:
1. We have a wooden tray blank. We prepared the surface of the tray for decor in advance: we unscrewed the handles, covered it on both sides for porous surfaces, waited for the soil to dry and cleaned the uplifted wood fibers with a fine sandpaper (a mandatory procedure, since the fibers on a wooden surface always “stand on end” after treatment with water-based compounds ). It should be noted that instead of a primer for porous surfaces, which is also called a primer for wooden surfaces, you can just as well use a universal primer.
It is customary to decorate or paint the back of the trays or the bottom of the boxes last. This is the final stage. But this time, in order to quickly publish our master class, I decided to start from the end.
We decided to decorate the back of the tray with a paper napkin. To do this, choose a napkin with a background pattern that suits the style. We have chosen a theme for the decoration of the tray "Harlequin and Columbine". Hence the appropriate choice of napkins.
We also prepared glue for sticking napkins (glue for decoupage with napkins).
2. On the entire surface to be decorated with a napkin, we apply an even layer. I always use the Italian manufacturer Stamperia when using this method of gluing paper napkins. It is quite possible that other adhesives for napkin decoupage could be useful here, but somehow it so happened that I always used this particular glue and it never let me down.
After applying the glue, we check, looking at the surface at an angle, “to the light”, so that there are no areas not smeared with glue.
3. Let the glue dry properly. The longer it dries, the better. The best thing to do is leave work until the next day. But, if time does not endure, then you can use a hairdryer.
4. For the next stage of work, you will need: parchment paper for baking and an iron.
We spread the napkin on the surface of the tray to see how the decor will look. But, since the surface of the tray is large enough, we need two identical napkins, which will have to be adjusted according to the pattern to each other. We customize the pattern of napkins, cutting off the excess parts. Separate the top colorful layer of napkins from the two lower white layers.
5. First, paste the first napkin. To do this, we apply it “face up” to the side of the tray that was previously covered with glue. We smooth it with our hands, straighten it, put baking paper on top of the napkin of such a size that it completely covers the napkin. Moreover, if one of the sides of the baking paper is smoother, and the other is slightly rough, then we put it on a napkin with the smooth side down.
We set the heating regulator of the iron to the lowest temperature (one division or “synthetics”).
If you have an iron with a steam generator, then first pour out the water from it, because. drops of water falling on a napkin or parchment can cause the napkin to “wrinkle” in this place, and when trying to dry it with an iron- break.
As soon as the iron heats up, we begin to iron our napkin through the baking paper. First, hold it with your hand so that it does not slip. We iron with very strong pressure, periodically holding the iron in one place for a few seconds. When the entire paper napkin is ironed in this way, set the iron aside and wait a few minutes until the ironed surface cools down, since if we immediately start removing the baking paper, then there is a possibility that it may come off with fragments of the napkin. After the surface has cooled, carefully remove the parchment.
6. Now we carefully look at where the napkin did not stick well or where there are still traces of perforation (punctures) along the edges of the napkin. We smooth these places with an iron already without parchment paper, right on the napkin, without holding the iron in one place in order to avoid yellowing of the napkin from overheating. We check whether the napkin is well glued around the perimeter. It is more convenient to smooth small fragments of the napkin with the corner of the iron, slightly tilting it.
Everything, the napkin is glued. Pay attention to how we got a flat and smooth surface.
7. Now we glue the second napkin onto the rest of the tray. Here we can fully appreciate the advantages of this method of sticking paper napkins:
Possibility to fine-tune the pattern
No deformation and stretching when sticking,
Complete absence of wrinkles
The simplicity of the method.
In this way, you can create very interesting collages from napkin fragments.
8. We cut off the edges of the napkin that protrude beyond the edge of the tray by rubbing with slightly fine sandpaper around the perimeter of the tray, where the horizontal surface ends and an angle is formed between the surface and the side wall of the tray. With this method, the excess parts of the napkin are cut off evenly and accurately.
9. After 3-5 minutes, cover the decorated surface with a uniform thin layer over the pasted napkin. At the same time, the surface of the napkin remains absolutely smooth, does not “wrinkle” (as it would be when using PVA glue).
Leave our work to dry completely (at least 2 hours).
10. After that, you can proceed to the finish - varnishing. The number of layers and degree of gloss is up to you, but I would not recommend applying less than 3 layers of varnish. Do not forget to let the previous layer dry for at least 2 hours for acrylic varnish and at least 8 hours for solvent-based varnish before applying the next varnish layer.
Decoupage is a special technique for decorating dishes, furniture, interior items, based on drawing a pattern on the surface of an object. This fascinating hobby allows you to create exclusive things with your own hands, opens up unlimited scope for creativity and imagination.
Unlike many other hobbies, decoupage does not require large material costs: all that is needed for decoupage is scissors, a decorative napkin with beautiful pattern, varnish and glue.
What glue to use for decoupage
A good decoupage glue should have the following characteristics:
- when dried, it should become colorless;
- the consistency of the adhesive should be medium;
- it should not set very quickly, so that the master has time to carefully apply the napkin and, if necessary, correct its position;
- over time, it should not darken or turn yellow;
- it should not have a sharp unpleasant odor.
Adhesive varnish for decoupage Mod Podge PLAID (USA) fully complies with these requirements. Ideal for decorating hard surfaces. Its original formula combines glue and varnish in one bottle.
It dries fairly quickly, forming a transparent water-repellent film upon drying, giving the surface an interesting matte look (the effect of the texture of brush strokes).
Glue is absolutely safe, before drying it is well washed off with warm soapy water. After complete drying (72 hours) it is very resistant to abrasion. A 236 ml package costs about 1000 rubles.
Glue for decoupage Decola (St. Petersburg) based on acrylic, it is designed to work on fabric, it is also suitable for hard surfaces (wood, metal, glass, etc.).
Great for transferring patterns from decoupage napkins to a textile base, after drying it becomes colorless. Full drying time - 12 hours. After that, it is recommended to iron the fabric with an iron on the reverse side through cheesecloth at medium temperature.
Two days after ironing, the product can be washed with soap and cold water. A 50 ml jar costs about 130-150 rubles.
Mordan "La Doratura" Ferrario (Italy). It is used for gluing sheets of gold leaf and potali imitating leaf coatings. Great for decorating glass and other water-repellent surfaces.
The glue dries slowly, which simplifies the work of gilding. The glue is applied with a brush on a clean, fat-free surface, gluing is carried out no earlier than half an hour, when the mordan dries a little. A bottle of Mordan with a volume of 250 ml costs about 1000 rubles. Also available in 75 ml and 1000 ml bottles.
Preparation of a working solution from PVA - how to dilute the glue
Many artisans prefer PVA glue for decoupage, but it is often too thick, then we offer such a way out of this situation.
The process of preparing the working solution is quite simple:
- the right amount of glue is poured into glassware;
- add a little clean cold water (for 2 parts of glue - 1 part of water);
- mix with a brush until a homogeneous structure is obtained.
The process of gluing on glue using the example of a napkin
For decoration, special decoupage cards or napkins can be used. Rice paper cards are glued using a well-known application technique: a thin, even layer of glue is applied to the base for decoupage, and an image is applied to the surface to be treated. Drip a little glue and carefully smooth with a sponge or a clean brush from the center to the edges.
It should be borne in mind that rice paper has a different density - from 5 to 25 grams per square meter. The lower the density, the easier it is to level it on the surface and smooth the edges. If the rice paper is very thick, it is better to carefully tear it out of the card, rather than cut it out.
Work with napkins is carried out according to the same technology as with rice cards:
- On the surface prepared in accordance with all the rules, decoupage adhesive varnish is applied in a thin layer,
- Cut or torn parts are applied to the surface.
- The picture is “impregnated” with an adhesive (lacquer) solution from the front side - we apply glue varnish with a brush or drip into the center and distribute it over a napkin (the part is smoothed from the center to the edge with a synthetic brush so that no air bubbles remain under it).
- When the glue dries, you can start decorating, painting - smoothing the boundaries of decoupage.
VIDEO INSTRUCTION
DIY recipe
You can also make your own decoupage glue. To do this, gelatin is soaked in glassware for a day to swell (1 part gelatin, 2 parts water), after which it is heated in a water bath to a boil and stirred until the lumps are completely dissolved.
At home, you can also prepare an analogue of Mod Podge glue.
For this you will need:
- one and a half glasses of ordinary flour;
- a quarter cup of sugar;
- a glass of clean cold water;
- a few drops of vegetable oil;
- a few drops of vinegar.
All ingredients are mixed by heating in a water bath. Immediately after cooling, the glue will be ready for use.
FAQ
How long does decoupage glue dry? As a rule, it takes about two hours, but it is recommended to use the product three days after decorating. Some masters use a hair dryer to speed up the process.
Can decoupage glue be substituted? Yes, special glue can be replaced with ordinary PVA, diluted with water in proportions of two to one. You need to dilute a small portion of glue immediately before starting work.
What is the best glue to use? To do this, use brushes of different sizes and hardness, and foam rubber swabs. The arsenal should also include very soft brushes that will not damage the thinnest napkin.
You can transform old or ordinary objects into unique ones using various techniques, but one of the most popular and affordable is decoupage. Available materials and tools are used in the work. All you need is “special” is paper or napkins. And about how to master decoupage for beginners, we will tell below. You don't have to buy anything super expensive. Glue, napkins, varnish, brushes, scissors. That's the whole set of necessary tools.
Decoupage for beginners: we collect everything you need
To begin with, briefly about what and with what you have to work. In general, decoupage is fixing on the basis of material or paper with a printed pattern. In order for the pattern to last longer, it is covered with several layers of varnish. Here is a brief description of the decoupage technique.
Decoupage is a technique that allows you to make something special out of ordinary things.
Base
As bases for decoupage, any slightly absorbent base is suitable. What can this technique be applied to? On the following grounds:
As you can see, the list is solid. Only very porous bases with a lot of irregularities are not suitable for decoupage. And so you can decorate everything: from dishes of any kind to furniture and doors (and you can use both the surface of the doors and glass inserts).
List of tools
Few tools needed:
All of the tools. Unless you still need stationery - a ruler, a pencil, an elastic band.
Expendable materials
Now let's talk about consumables. We will not talk about napkins and paper here - there is a separate paragraph about them. In addition to them, to make decoupage with your own hands, you will need:
That's all that may be required, so although it requires decoupage for beginners, cash investments, but not very large ones.
Napkins, paper
For decoupage, napkins and printed paper are used. They are glued to the surface, varnished. There are the following types of materials for that type of decor:
In general, special pastes are also used to create three-dimensional images, ordinary photographs from which the bottom layer of paper has been removed and other drawings. But it is not easy to work with them, and this is not decoupage for beginners, but for those who are already developing their skills.
Napkin decoupage: techniques
The main idea of decoupage is to decorate the surface with an image or pattern. The process is creative and there are no concepts of “right” or “wrong”. Surfaces and patterns are different, so different techniques are used. You just have to choose the way that works best for you.
Bottle decoupage is a good start for beginners
The easiest way to start mastering decoupage is by gluing large fragments. When you learn how to glue napkins without wrinkles, you can move on - master the methods of volumetric decoupage or the use of crequelure varnish. In the meantime, let's figure out how to work with large fragments.
Preparatory work
First of all, you need to remember that napkin decoupage for beginners will have to start with the preparation of the base. It should be even, smooth, without pits, cracks, humps (except for those provided specifically). To help - putty and sandpaper. After the surface is leveled, the workpiece is covered with soil (selected according to the type of material) and then covered with white paint.
The stage of applying white paint is mandatory. The fact is that the napkins are very thin, and when glued, they become translucent. If they are pasted on a white surface, the pattern is still bright. If the surface is colored or dark, it fades noticeably, there is no proper effect. Therefore, the paint must be applied even to plastic or ceramics and, possibly, in several layers.
What to do with a napkin
First you need to decide in what form to use a napkin.
How to decide whether to tear a napkin or cut out elements from it? According to the size of the picture. If the fragments are large, have clearly defined boundaries, they are cut out. If the drawing is small, one will be pasted next to the other, they are torn. In this case, it will be easier to match the edges.
Gluing methods
You can choose how to stick napkins for decoupage only by experience. First of all, we decide what exactly we will glue. Can:
- Varnish.
- Special glue.
- PVA - divorced or not.
- Glue stick.
- Egg white.
Gluing on varnish is no worse than glue. But after drying, you can’t do anything anymore - the napkins become almost monolithic with the product. If you don't like something, there will be no chance to change it. Therefore, beginners most often use PVA glue - it is cheaper, it is convenient to work with it.
If you decide to use PVA, you will still have to think (or try) to use it diluted or undiluted. Most often it is diluted with ordinary water in a ratio of 1: 1. When such an adhesive is used, one must be prepared for the fact that the napkin soaks from water, can stretch in different directions, and tear from careless movements. Basically, you have to get used to it.
Glue stick is also a good option... if you can get all the bubbles and wrinkles out. This is normal on smooth, slippery surfaces. If the surface is rough, it is much more difficult. It is safe to work with egg white, but it is specific, so if you want, you have to try.
How and where to apply adhesive
Beginners usually choose a small size for their first object for decoupage. In principle, this is not bad. It’s just desirable that the shape be simpler: without a lot of bends.
If the decoration is small, you can use a brush or fingers to apply the glue. With the same "tool" then level the napkin. The brush is used flat or true - to whom it is more convenient. Many people prefer to work with their fingers - you can feel all the folds.
When gluing napkins for decoupage, glue can be applied to an object or a napkin. They do it this way and that. When applied to a napkin, again, there are two techniques:
- Glue is applied evenly to the entire glued piece, applied to the base in the middle. With movements from the middle to the edges, air bubbles are expelled and wrinkles are straightened.
- A certain amount of glue is poured into the middle of the fragment. Further actions are the same: lay on the base, smooth.
In the second technique, it is easier to deal with bubbles and wrinkles - with a large amount of semi-liquid glue, this is easier.
What and how you will do is not important. It is important that there are no wrinkles or bubbles.
You can also do it if you spread the glue on the base: make a small puddle in the place where you are going to glue the fragment, lay it down, and, lifting the edges, drive out the bubbles and smooth out the wrinkles.
Decoupage of a flat surface: glue + iron
When decorating a flat surface, you can do it easier than driving bubbles through the entire napkin. On the primed surface, apply a layer of PVA glue or coat with a glue stick. We smear it well so that “paths” do not form. Let's dry. You can use a hair dryer to speed up the process.
On the dried surface we lay and level the napkin, smooth it with our hands. We put a piece of baking paper on it and with a hot iron from the edge we begin to smooth it.
Decoupage for beginners - maybe try something like this?
Due to the fact that the glue is heated, it impregnates the napkin. Usually it turns out quite evenly. When everything is glued, smear glue on top and let it dry. This is perhaps the easiest way to learn decoupage for beginners.
File + water and glue
Decoupage for beginners using a file for documents (we choose a denser film), water and glue. This method is good if you decorate with large drawings (cut out). Pour a little clean water into the middle of the file, put the cut out fragment into it, face down. We carefully straighten it, expelling bubbles and straightening wrinkles. It's easy in a puddle of water.
When the fragment is straightened, lift the edges of the file and drain the water. The pattern remains adhered to the smooth film. In this state, it is convenient to “try on” and look for the best place for him.
Having found the area where you want to place the decoration, we apply the drawing on the film and begin to smooth it. This is a very difficult moment. It is necessary to ensure that at least one edge of the napkin sticks. After one of the edges of the image has been fixed, gradually smoothing and gradually lifting the edge of the film, we achieve that the napkin remains on the base. If you act gradually, gradually gluing the picture to the base, there will be no bubbles or wrinkles. This method is suitable as decoupage for beginners.
When one edge is stuck, everything is easy
The last stage - we coat the adhered napkin with diluted PVA glue. After it dries, we already apply a protective layer of varnish.
A few secrets
This cannot be called a method of gluing napkins for decoupage. These are little tricks and tricks that can help you deal with creases faster or better.
- Before work, the cut fragments are moistened with water from a spray bottle. The napkin stretches, drying it no longer shrinks. If she has become very warped, she is ironed. Then use as usual. Since the paper is already straightened, it almost does not stretch. Everything goes easier.
- Moisten the fragment with acrylic varnish in the form of an aerosol. In this case, the napkin will become stiff, it does not stretch and does not form folds. But lacquered, it no longer allows glue to pass through, therefore we coat the surface with glue and a treated napkin on it with glue.
- Soak a napkin that is already on the base (dry) and only then coat it with glue. It's hard to explain, watch the video.
We eliminate flaws
If the surface is decorated with small torn fragments, from which it is necessary to obtain a single whole, straighten the edges of the fragments with a brush or fingers. If somewhere there is a heterogeneity of color, we dilute the paint of the desired shade and paint over the translucent base.
When the surface is no longer very wet, but not yet dry, you can draw details with thin brushes and acrylic paints, add brightness and clarity.
The next step is the design of the edges of the product. Here the approaches are different. Somewhere you have to cut the edges evenly, painting over the sidewalls, somewhere you can wrap the napkin on the back side and glue it there. In general, this is also a whole science.
Bringing to the finish look is no less creative process
After that, you can already leave the product to dry. To speed up the process, you can use a hair dryer, but you need to keep it at a considerable distance, move all the time and make sure that it dries evenly. If, after drying, you see that there is a crease on the glued napkin, you can still fix it. We take fine-grained sandpaper, sand it. We act gently so as not to damage the drawing around.
Varnishing
The dried product is covered with water-based acrylic varnish. You can use another, but this one is recognized as the best. First one layer is applied, after it dries, the second. You can stop at this, but if active use is expected (caskets, chairs, etc.), there can be more layers of varnish - three or four.
Photo of decoupage products
Learning the technique is not bad, but without knowing the possibilities, it is difficult to imagine what can be done and what can be expected. A few photos will help you decide what you can or want to do.
Turning an old table into a new and very unusual one is the power of decoupage
Stools are also an art object
This technique is called reverse decoupage - napkins are glued to the glass with the front side
→ Methods for sticking napkins
February 19, 2010
Now I will talk about how to glue decoupage napkins without wrinkles.
In general, my personal opinion is that there is no concept of “how to do it right” in decoupage. Everyone chooses the way that he does best, and there are a great many of these ways!
To begin with: the napkin can be glued as a whole, or in parts. This usually depends on the pattern and on the surface on which the napkin is applied. For example, you won’t be able to stick a whole napkin without folds on a spherical surface with all your desire - you need tucks.
Secondly, the question “cut or tear?” If the drawing has clear boundaries (for example: it is a separate flower, or, as in the photo, a bat) - we definitely cut it out.
If we are working with a drawing whose background we will need to finish, trying to hide the border between the napkin and the background, we tear the napkin with our hands.
Before applying the napkin, be sure to tint the surface of the workpiece with white paint, otherwise the napkin will lose its brightness, because after varnishing it will become half transparent. The result will be disappointing: the napkin will take on the background color and may become almost invisible.
Now about the methods of gluing, they can be combined into two types:
1. First smear the surface to be decorated with glue - then apply a napkin.
2. First, attach the napkin to the surface, and then smear it with glue or varnish, the glue will soak the napkin through and through - and it will stick.
For gluing, by the way, you can use a variety of glues: specialized potches for decoupage, PVA glue, diluted PVA glue, glue stick, even egg white, or you can stick it directly on the varnish (in the case of varnish, the napkin adheres to the surface almost tightly, therefore for beginners, it’s better to use PVA glue - it’s cheap and easy to wash off if something doesn’t work out).
Now for the tools: you can use brushes or smear the glue with your fingers. Some masters believe that you can do everything more accurately with your fingers, because their sensitivity is higher. I prefer to work with a flat brush (fan brush, synthetic, #4 or larger):
Let's start gluing!
Method 1: PVA glue and decoupage
We breed PVA glue 1: 1 and, having attached a napkin, we begin to smooth the napkin, moving from the center to the edges. You can do this with a brush or fingers, but the main thing is to move a little bit in different directions so that the napkin is saturated with glue evenly. In this case, the edges of the napkin must be evenly lifted so that the resulting wrinkles are immediately removed.
A popular way on the forums is to “pour a puddle of glue into the middle of a napkin and smear it with your fingers in a circular motion.” The author of this technique is kzero. Excess glue is then removed with ordinary napkins.
Method 2: glue stick (or PVA) and iron (from here)
This method is suitable for large flat surfaces. The surface is smeared with glue, dried with a hairdryer, covered with a napkin. The napkin straightens as much as possible and is covered on top with baking paper. Ironed.
Top with another layer of glue. It turns out very smoothly:
Method 3: plastic file and decoupage (taken from here)
For this method, we take an ordinary plastic file in which we put business papers. The cut out napkin for decoupage is placed on the file! Facing the file! and pour water on top.
Gently spread the napkin on the file with your fingers. In a puddle of water, this is not difficult :) Excess water is drained.
The most important thing is that at least one edge of the napkin sticks to the surface, then the rest of the napkin will begin to stick behind it.
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Method 4, auxiliary: sprinkler
The napkin is pre-sprayed with water from a spray bottle so that it stretches. Then dry and, if necessary, iron. Thanks to this method, the napkin stretches less when pasted and less wrinkles form.
You can also sprinkle a napkin with an aerosol acrylic varnish and, after drying, iron it with an iron. From this, the napkin will “get stiff” and will not stretch and wrinkle so much. It is only necessary to take into account one thing: when spraying with varnish, the napkin already ceases to be permeable to water or glue, which means that it is necessary to coat the surface with glue BEFORE applying the napkin.
Method 5: remove the consequences. After a fight, they wave ... with a skin)))
If we glued the napkin and it dried with a crease, all is not lost. The fold itself can be gently sanded with a sandpaper-zero. Most importantly, do not overdo it, otherwise you will erase the pattern of the napkin.
Method 6: Applying wrinkle-free wipes (my own method)
Well, the number of my students has long exceeded one hundred people, which means that the method has gone to the people, it's time to show it to a wide audience :)
For this method, a fan synthetic brush and water are used. Fixing the napkin with varnish or glue occurs after its application.
If there are questions, I will gladly answer.
If someone has problems watching the video - MK based on my method in step-by-step photos from the master Kukushechka can be viewed on the website of the Country of Masters.
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